The Ultimate Guide to Grading Pokemon Cards
- Eric
- Aug 20, 2024
- 8 min read
How to get your Pokemon cards graded and is it worth it?
Grading your Pokémon cards can be a game-changer, especially if you’re looking to preserve your collection's value or make a little extra cash flipping them on the open market. And it can also blow up in your face and cost you money. Whether you're new to grading or just need a refresher, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know—based on my own experiences diving into the world of PSA grading.
*Note that this guide focuses on PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator) which is the biggest and most established grading company for Pokemon (along with Beckett). The newcomers such as CGC, AGS and TAG have some plusses (like that TAG case 👀) but don't have the track record nor the same value on the open market as PSA and Beckett. So we'll just focus on PSA.
Step 1: Decide Which Cards to Grade
There are two main reasons collectors decide to grade their cards. Flipping the cards on the open market for a profit or to preserve your precious cardboard babies in an expensive piece of plastic. Both are valid. But which cards should you grade? There are a few factors you can use to decide if it makes sense.
Rarity: Early on, I made the mistake of grading a bunch of common cards during the 2020 boom that just didn’t hold much value. Now, I focus only on rare modern chase cards like alt arts or SIRs or vintage holos and mid era chase cards. Nobody wants a PSA 10 common BIbarel from Diamond and Pearl Base Set.
Condition: Generally speaking, only send in those cards that look like they just came out of the pack if you're looking for PSA 10s. Even if they did just come out of a pack that doesn't guarantee it's getting a Gem Mint 10. In fact it's still quite rare with the poor quality of printing the Pokemon company has done in the Scarlet and Violet Era.
Value: I’ve learned the hard way to always check current market prices on platforms like eBay.com and Pokedata.io before grading. You have to do the math here to figure out what cards make sense. For cards I want to flip, I look for a large margin of around 100% or more between the PSA 10 price and the raw cards price. Why such a large margin you ask? The more margin, the more you can potentially make but also it cushions you for reality of flipping cards on the market and the potential of large, sudden price swings (which happen a lot in new modern sets) and the impact of Ebay, TCGPlayer fees. Use my free grading calculator to see if a card is worth grading.
Personal Value: Not everything’s about money. I’ve graded many of my cards that aren’t super valuable, but they mean a lot to me. Grading can be a great way to preserve those sentimental pieces for years to come.
Step 2: Inspect Your Cards for Key Grading Factors
PSA grades cards on a scale from 1 to 10, with 10 being "Gem Mint." The first few times I submitted cards, I didn’t pay enough attention to these factors, and it showed in the grades I got back. Here’s what I focus on now:
Centering: This one got me early on. PSA is very particular about centering, so take a close look at how the artwork and borders are aligned. A well-centered card will have equal borders on all sides, and that’s what PSA wants to see. They allow 60/40 on the front and are slightly more lenient on the back. Some people like these tools for checking centering but with a little practice you'll be able to tell the tolerances yourself. Below the Flareon looks about 70/30 and the Vaporeon looks a little more like 60/40.
Corners: I had a card that I thought was in perfect condition until I noticed one tiny nick in the corner. Sure enough, that dropped the grade. Make sure your corners are sharp and free of any wear. Sometimes with Illustration rares especially, you'll get a 'fraying of the holo' underneath the print or you'll get a terribly cut card that 'flares up' that can cost you a PSA 10.
Edges: I once sent in a card with a little whitening on the edges, thinking it wouldn’t matter much. It did. PSA looks closely at edges, so they need to be clean with no dings or whitening for a 10. Sometimes you can get away with a small dot of white on the back though so use your own discretion.
Surface: Surface scratches are very common on old holos. Use a harsh light and position it at 45º to your card and move it back and forth in the light to inspect the surface. Many modern cards (and vintage holos) have print lines running down the center of them.
Before you submit anything you should familiarize yourself with the PSA Grading Standards here.
*A note about sourcing cards: If you are looking to buy raw singles with the hopes of grading them for profit, I can't stress enough the importance of buying them in person. The amount of times I have bought cards on Ebay, Facebook etc with many many high quality pics only to have the cards arrive and notice a ding etc is countless. Not to say it's impossible but I find it a lot harder.
When you source at a card show or shop, bring your iphone and shine that light across the cards to check for imperfections. This is what I do now. Even though you might feel a little silly inspecting a $9 Infernape IR for 5 minutes, you'll feel a lot better than getting back a PSA 8.
Step 3: Prepare Your Cards for Submission
Once you’ve picked out the cards you want to grade, it’s time to prepare them for submission. I’ve made a few rookie mistakes in this area, so here’s what I do now:
Clean Your Cards: I gently wipe down my cards with a microfiber cloth to remove any dust specs or fingerprints. Be gentle here—one wrong move and you could scratch the card. Things like Kurt's Card Care have come on the market in the last few years and I've seen people get good results in using it on vintage holos to bring back the shine and remove some surface scratches. Nat Turner of PSA has said they are 'looking for cards that have undergone restoration' so use all this at your own risk.
Use Card Sleeves and Semi-Rigid Holders: I always place each card in a penny sleeve and then in Card Saver 1. This extra step protects your cards during shipping and ensures they arrive at PSA in the same condition you sent them. Also they require it so use them!
Fill Out the PSA Submission Form: PSA’s submission form can be a bit intimidating at first, but once you’ve done it a few times, it becomes second nature. They way they have some cards labeled can make it hard to find the card you are trying to submit. Your best bet is to find that card in a psa slab and copy the name from that slab into the search bar. Make sure you have all the details about each card, including its value and the service level you want. I’ve found that different service levels are worth considering based on how quickly you need your cards graded.
You'll also have to decide if you want to join the PSA Collectors Club for $150 a year. This allows you to get exclusive pricing deals and the PSA magazine. PSA recently sent out a OnePiece exclusive card that was going for upwards of $200 so sometimes it can pay off. But if you are not grading a lot or have never graded before consider using a consigner or local card shop to submit on your behalf.
Pack Your Cards Securely: The first time I sent in cards, I didn’t pack them as securely as I should have, and it made me nervous until I got the “cards received” email from PSA. Now, I place my sleeved cards between two pieces of cardboard with a couple rubber bands for extra protection and pack them with a light amount of bubble wrap and put them securely in a box.
Step 4: Shipping and Submission
Shipping your cards to PSA is like sending a part of your collection out into the world. Here’s how I make sure it all goes smoothly:
Choose a Reliable Shipping Method like FedEx: I always use a shipping method that includes tracking and insurance that PSA provides you.
Submit to PSA: Ship your package to PSA’s address and keep a record of your tracking number. PSA will notify you once they receive your cards, and the waiting game begins.
Step 5: Understanding Your PSA Grades
After a few weeks (or months, depending on the service level), PSA will grade your cards and return them to you in tamper-evident holders. Here’s what each grade means:
Gem Mint 10: Perfect centering, sharp corners, and a flawless surface. These cards are top-tier. Congrats you're gamble paid off!
Mint 9: Nearly perfect with minor flaws like slight off-centering. Yay, you might reclaim your costs!
Near Mint-Mint 8: Light wear and slightly more noticeable flaws. Bruh...
Because an actual human is grading your cards, sometimes you get grades back that are, let's say, "challenging". You can look that card up and down and it looks like a 10 to you but PSA says it's a 7. That just happens sometimes. One thing I'd suggest is not to submit more than 10 or so of the same card. I feel like if I was a grader, I'd get 'numb' to the cards i was looking at over and over and if there was a large amount of the same card, I'd probably find a few discrepencies between them and in turn give out a few 9s instead of 10s.
Grading Modern Cards: Is Flipping Worth It?
Grading modern Pokémon cards can be a bit tricky when it comes to profitability. I’ve learned this through trial and error, but I can attest that you CAN make money doing this. Many in the hobby just grade cards to make their nut. Here are some key points to consider:
PSA 9 Grades and Break-Even Point: Early on, I was thrilled to get PSA 9 grades on my modern cards—until I realized I was barely breaking even and usually loosing money after grading fees. With modern cards, a PSA 9 often means you’ll just lose a few dollars, so it’s crucial to focus on cards with a good chance of scoring a PSA 10. These tend to offer the only return on investment.
Modern Cards Worth Grading: I’ve graded many modern cards that didn’t pan out, but I’ve also had some hits. Look for cards that are highly sought after, and that can grade 10s easily. TCGFish.com has a chart for every card that tells you the odds of getting a 10 which can be helpful. Remember, modern cards (especially Scarlet and Violet Illustration rares) have bad print quality so 10s are hard to get. That said, their difficultly in grading means the 10s are rarer and in turn worth more.
Timing the Market: One thing I’ve learned is that timing is everything with modern cards. If you can grade and flip a card quickly when it’s in high demand—like right after a new set release—you’ve got a better chance of making a profit. I’ve had a few cards that I timed just right, and others that start to crash as you wait patiently for PSA. Remember that 99% of modern PSA 10s peak at release so timing them as close to release is paramount.
Final Thoughts: Is Grading Worth It?
Grading can significantly increase the value of your cards, but it’s not always the right move for every card in your collection. From my experience, it’s crucial to consider the card’s condition, rarity, and market value before deciding to grade. With modern cards, the potential for profit is there, but it’s important to be strategic in your choices. And remember, grading also adds a layer of protection to your prized cards, preserving them for years to come (or at least that is what you can tell yourself with that PSA 5 Magikarp IR)
If you’re looking to grade your cards and aren’t sure where to start, I'm here to help. Whether you need advice on which cards to grade or help with the submission process, feel free to reach out. There are also discords and reddits exclusively to pre-grade cards but I can't vouch for any of those. I’ve been through it all, and I’m happy to share what I’ve learned. Happy collecting!
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